Sebastiaan Pieter Groenen from the Netherlands was the toast of the British fashion industry at last night's catwalk show, after competing with 36 other designers to walk away with the prestigious award.
Groenen, whose first collection was watched by the likes of accessories designer Lulu Guinness and songstress VV Brown, offered a relaxed take on modern tailoring infused with sporty details. Inspired by street fashion and youth culture, the collection featured razor back cut suits with raw edges and long sheer overlay vests in dove grey and soft pink.
The 24-year-old, who now lives in Bethnal Green, was delighted with the achievement."It feels absolutely amazing to win", says Groenen, "but completely unexpected. I was just pulled on stage, I didn't even know what I was going out for. I had to check afterwards what I'd even won."
After completing internships with Raf Simons at Jil Sander and with publications including Fantastic Man and Monocle, the young designer hopes one day to launch his own eponymous label. "I think there's definitely a calling for interesting menswear in the industry", he said. "Womenswear gets a lot of the attention, but men can push boundaries too."
The show was a night of firsts for the college in more than one respect. Hosted at Hackney House - a key media showspace built for the Olympic period - graduates from other pathways including Contour and Jewellery design were also given the opportunity to appear on the catwalk.
A collaborative effort from three students - Rose Irwin, Diana Auria Harris and Lili Colley - won the award for Fashion Innovation. Womenswear designer Irwin produced a bold array of patterned bomber jackets and cropped trousers, while contour specialist Harris provided printed swimwear in fluoro shades and jeweller Colley added Perspex accessories such as visors and chunky necklaces for the combined collection.
Buckinghamshire-born Ashleigh Downer also?took home the Barnet Lawson award for best use of trimmings. Showing a commitment to sustainable fashion, the 22-year-old design technology student used crystals grown in jam jars from her kitchen on her garments, as well as test tubes filled with coloured pigment and enamel.
Other notable highlights included designs from Lucy Adjoa Armah, who sent out an all-denim collection which incorporated perforated and distressed textures, and Muswell Hill-based Mary Binding for her high-shine moulded leather outerwear.
While Central Saint Martins is often considered the most innovative and avant garde university in London, the London College of Fashion has long been revered for its ability to produce commercially aware designers who produce collections that are both interesting and hugely sellable. This show served as a fitting example.
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